By attaching to the camera directly, the adapter provides a large unobstructed aperture of 45mm (1.77"), up to 10mm more than with a conventional T-Ring.
The adapter fits onto a DSLR camera body, and inserts directly into a 2" focuser or accessory. The ELIM-T adapter from Blue Fireball Technologies can reduce vignetting and increase the field of view, while eliminating the need for a separate T-Ring when using a DSLR camera for prime focus imaging. You could take it a step up, and support larger lenses or small telescopes, with something like the Celestron Advanced VX mount or the iOptron ZEQ25 (the latter being very slightly more expensive but a fair bit better.Why use a restrictive T-Ring, when you can let every photon of light through with this true 2" prime focus adapter? So something like the SkyTracker at the very least is important. You could try without tracking, but you really going to be limited to really light exposures at focal lengths below 35mm. You can pick up a small equatorial tracking mount and tripod for around $800, or if you want to start even cheaper than that, with lenses of around 200mm and shorter you can use something like the iOpteron SkyTracker, which is about $500. The Astronomik CLS EOS Clip-in filter is about $140. The summer nebula and galactic core season is starting now, and I hope to be getting some more nebula photos with this filter soon.Īnyway, if you really want to do some astrophotography, and already have some Canon EF lenses and an EOS DSLR, then you CAN do astrophotography! You can do ultra wide field astrophotography with lenses of 50mm and wider, wide field with lenses between 50mm and 1200mm, and deep field with lenses longer than that. It has allowed me to get quite a few great nebula shots: Personally, even though I am under a yellow->green transition zone, I use the Astronomik CLS with my 7D. You can then attach the DSLR to a telescope with a T-adapter and T-ring, or to a Canon EF lens (note, you CAN NOT use EF-S lenses, as the short backfocus doesn't leave room for the filter.) There are also other brands that offer similar filters, with varying strengths. It's super easy to use.it literally just clips right into Canon EOS DSLRs. Look for the Astronomik CLS EOS Clip In filter. I know quite a few astrophotographers now who live in the middle of or very near to big cities, and they still image. You can use a camera lens, DSLR, and a Light Pollution Suppression or Reduction filter, even under the most heavily light polluted "red" and "white" zones. You don't have to worry about LP nearly as much these days. I've been waiting for the 13th for so long, I'm kind of chomping at the bit. I haven't had many opportunities to do that.but the first clear night in almost four weeks is supposed to happen on the 13th.I plan to take the Atlas, my DSLR and those two lenses out to a dark site and see if I can get some wide field shots of the milky way core, scorpius, and a few of the Ha nebulas near the galactic core. I also like using my 100mm and 50mm lenses with my DSLR mounted to a Vixen dovetail for really wide field stuff. Once I get a mono CCD camera, it will make for a superb wide field setup. Optically, it's as good as the $12,000 Officina Stellare HiPer API 152, and faster. It's relatively short, so good for wider field work. I do love using my 600mm lens as a telescope.
#Eos backyard dslr attachment portable#
The 10Micron GM2000HPS has an ultra portable version, where the head disassembles into two lighter weight parts, plus the control box. That's one of the reasons I got the Orion Atlas.I do take it out to dark sites about 40 miles away or so.
If you need portability, then high end stuff just isn't viable.
I guess that's one of the biggest pros of going inexpensive.
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